Hearts & Arrows | Heart & Cupid | Same Same, But Different.

Hearts & Arrows | Heart & Cupid | Same Same, But Different.

By Mark Hiroshi Willis

In a previous company I would regularly travel to one of our diamond polishing factories in Bangkok, Thailand. There we would polish the diamonds that would later be used in the exquisite diamond rings of famous luxury brands such as Tiffany and Mikimoto. One phrase that always stuck with me was “Same Same, But Different” (I even have the t-shirt). The Thai people use this phrase, which basically means that things are similar. In the diamond business, being similar just doesn’t cut it. Small differences in the 4C’s can mean huge differences in price and the overall beauty of a stone.

In Japan, the birthplace of Hearts & Arrows, the term was patented by a Mr. Kinsaku Yamashita and he uses it for his own brand. In it’s place, Japan’s largest gemological laboratory (Central Grading Laboratory or CGL) patented the term Heart & Cupid and is kind enough to allow all the other domestic laboratories to use this term as long as they follow the strict criteria for giving the Heart and Cupid stamp of approval.

So in my search to give clients and readers the most accurate information, I decided to go directly to the industry standard, CGL (located throughout Japan in Tokyo, Nagoya, Osaka, Fukuoka, and Kofu).

It was then that they provided me with a Japanese copy of their Heart & Cupid criteria which can be viewed directly on their website. With my background of being Japanese/American and a Graduate Gemologist of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), I offered to do the English and technical translation (CGL Website: English and Japanese PDF Files).

After carefully studying the criteria one can clearly see there is a huge difference between real Hearts & Arrows and the fake ones being sold everywhere.

Most laboratories around the world do not have set criteria for Hearts & Arrows (even GIA), and therefore we see many dealers, shops, online diamond dealers, etc taking it upon themselves to interpret it in their own way. Some companies will even go as far as laser inscribing “H&A” on the side of the stone.

And when we look at the bottom line and how it affects price, the answer is:

A price differential of 10%, 20% and even more depending on the stones size and grade.

For such a huge difference in price and beauty, don’t you think you should have the stamp of approval from an independent laboratory with strict guidelines? Or maybe “Same Same”is good enough for you.

Key Points

• Hearts & Arrows patented by Mr. Kinsaku Yamashita in 1988

• Heart & Cupid patented by CGL in 1997.

• CGL allows the diamond industry to use the term Heart & Cupid as long as they follow the strict criteria.

• When buying a stone labeled Hearts and Arrows, be sure to buy one that has been graded by a reputable laboratory that adheres to the strict grading criteria.

• Price difference of 10%, 20%, or more!

For further information, contact us at info@diamonds.co.jp

Located in Tokyo, Japan we specialize in 1 carat and up, diamond engagement rings.

We also carry a regular line of wedding bands, eternity rings, diamond earrings, diamond necklaces, and unique diamond accessories.

Diamond 4C’s | Color.

By Mark Hiroshi Willis (GIA G.G.)

Diamond Color.

By using controlled lighting and precise viewing conditions, gemologist will grade each stone for its color.

The five main categories are:

1. Colorless = D,E,F.

2. Near Colorless = G,H,I,J.

3. Faint Yellow = K,L,M.

4. Very Light Yellow = N,O,P,Q,R.

5. Light Yellow = S,T,U,V,W,X,Y,Z.

After the standard five categories above, we move into Z+ stones or fancy color diamonds that can be extremely rare and expensive. Pinks, reds, blues, greens, oranges, and even yellows that show extreme color can be more expensive than the prized D color. Then there are the browns (champagne, cognac, and chocolate), which are more affordable. And finally black diamonds, which are the cheapest color range available.

To the untrained eye the color distinctions are so subtle and practically invisible. But these slight differences can make a very big difference in diamond quality and price.

Key Points

• In Japan, when we look at the bridal diamond market, the typical range has always been Colorless or F up in color. Things are changing though, many famous international brands will use G and H Color stones (or even lower color stones for fashion rings, pendants or earrings).

• Unless you are a professional, you probably will not be able to tell the difference in one color grade such as a D and E color (Maybe even two grades).

• Once the stone is set, it becomes more difficult to distinguish the color grade, even for a professional. And if you take into consideration the dirt, soap and hand cream residue that accumulates on a diamond through normal wear, it is almost impossible to get an accurate grading.

• People are always comparing stones, but to the untrained eye if you have one stone by itself, it is almost impossible to tell the color grade. Remember, most people do not wear multiple engagement rings and/or sit there comparing the color of their friend’s diamond ring side by side.

For further information, contact us at: info@diamonds.co.jp

Located in Tokyo, Japan we specialize in 1 carat and up, diamond engagement rings.

We also carry a regular line of wedding bands, eternity rings, diamond earrings, diamond necklaces, and unique diamond accessories.